Sunday brunch feels hot out of a brick oven. I remember cheese grits with farm sausage, scones and butter and light, golden honey, strong coffee and fresh orange juice.

I brought my sister and brother-in-law here when they visited from San Fransisco, because it felt like their kind of balance — sitting in the long ell of an old dairy barn at a broad wooden table, feeling a sense of skill in the way the place fit together.

Mark Firth was a restauranteur in Brooklyn before he came to the Berkshires. He was a co-founder of Diner and Marlow & Sons, a pair of restaurants at the heart of Williamsburg for more than 15 years. Out here he has raised his own pigs for his own kitchen, and he named his new venture for them: A ‘Prairie Whale’ is a hog. He also turns to local farms for fruits and vegetables and meats.

“We buy whole animals,” he writes on social media, “so we go through all the different cuts of meat, and our menu changes daily.” Certainly the sausage, and the honey and the butter, tasted fresh and clear, and unlike anything else, anywhere.

BTW Berkshires